Volunteering is fun! We recommend it highly!

Yesterday, Billy and Jill along with Sue and Jacque, members of our intrepid volunteer grooming crew, visited the Animal Welfare League of Chicago Ridge's intake center on the south side of Chicago. Check out the photos from our visit to AWL and other shelters here.


We worked with Diane and her crew, who are all dedicated and wonderful people. We applaud their hard work and were thrilled to help!

We walked, groomed and pampered dogs who were on their way the the organization's Chicago Ridge facility for adoption. Photographer Sheri Berliner of Petraits Pet Photography was on hand photographing the adoptable animals, which include rabbits, cats and dogs. Sheri's photographs help the AWL publicize the animals.

BEFORE

AFTER

Volunteering at a local shelter is a wonderful way to get hands on experience with animals. While you are making them feel good, we guarantee that you won't be able to wipe the smile off your face knowing you brought comfort and love to a homeless animal.


A dog is much more adoptable if she looks like a pet rather than a grubby street dog. Every time we groom a shelter dog, we can see and feel the dog's relief when all the old fur and dirt come off. Moreover, the interaction and attention from a caring human lifts the dog's spirits, making her more attractive to potential adopters. Many of these dogs have never been properly cared for, and a gentle grooming session can gain their trust and keep them relaxed when they meet potential adopters.

You don't need to be a professional groomer to make a difference in a dog's life. Most of our grooming crew are regular people who have learned to bathe and brush the dogs. Everything you need to know to learn to pamper shelter dogs and your pooch, is in our book Happy Dog: Caring For Your Dog's Body, Mind and Spirit.

Start reading and volunteering! If you have any questions, send them in and Billy will answer them.

Ask Billy: Why Won't My Dog's Johnson Go Back In?

We've received an interesting, but potentially embarrassing question from a friend of a cute little white dog. We've changed the names of those involved to protect the pooch--we don't want to hurt the little guy's chances with the gals at the dog park. So let's just call him "Dog Doe."

"Puppysitter" writes: "I was recently babysitting the most adorable 1 year old dog for a couple of weeks and we encountered a small problem. This neutered pup became aroused after humping a teddy bear and his little pecker peeped out. Unfortunately, the hair down there was longer that it should have been, and got caught in the shaft, which prevented his lil' lipstick from going all the way back in. It was out for a day before we realized it, and he kept licking it. It was obvious he was irritated. When we took him into the vet's office- she gave him a shot for inflammation and lubricated him to remove the hair. After trimming the area, she gently tucked the unmentionable away in its place and put him on UTI medication in case he developed an infection. We were relieved when it was all over. "Dog Doe" is happy and carefree once again.

Is there a way to prevent this beyond simply puppy-scaping?"

Dear Puppysitter, thanks for asking a delicate question and thanks for taking Dog Doe to the vet right away! If you had waited, the poor guy could have developed a severe and painful infection.

Keeping the genital area clean and tidy on male and female dogs is extremely important. This true for all dogs, although dogs with coats that require trimming need some extra attention "down there." I mean, beyond the pooch's self-cleaning ability.

The coat on Hair dogs (such as Poodles, Doodles, Porties, Shih-Tzus, Yorkies, Beardies, Maltese, and mixes) keeps growing. That means, unless the hair is cut, it will get longer and bushier and then you risk retraction problems. If the hair is left uncut, it can wrap around the penis, which makes it too big (or wide) to retract. Left out, it will dry up and have no lubrication to help the retraction process. Occasionally, you'll see a dog with a coat that sheds when it reaches a genetically pre-determined length have a problem, but it's rare. Moreover, unkept genitals can cause a host of other unpleasant issues, such as mats, crusty debris--we could go on, but this is a family blog.

Regardless of your dog's coat type, you must keep his genitals neat and tidy. Whether Fido has a penis or a vagina, discharge is normal unless it becomes excessive. Moreover, if a male dog isn't neutered, you'll have lots of discharge, which contributes to the retraction danger. (Yes, another reason to neuter!) Keeping the genitals clean and tidy also prevents mats from developing and debris from hiding and exposes the area to air, which as we all know is a freeing feeling.

I recommend that the genital area be trimmed short or shaved on all dogs that have a lot of hair or fur there. Please, don’t attempt to cut or shave this area yourself. This is an extremely delicate area that requires the expert hand of a professional groomer--a good groomer with a gentle and steady touch and one without a caffeine addiction. If your dog has Hair that grows, he'll need to go in for a genital touch up about every 4-6 weeks. Otherwise, see the groomer when the fur gets long or thick.

And one more thing, Puppysitter: I recommend that you keep all your teddy bears on high shelves, especially those under age 16.

Yea Billy! Billy Earns Another Prestigious Certification

We are proud and pleased to announce that Happy Dog Land's own Billy Rafferty earned his Master Pet Stylist (MPS) certification from the prestigious International Society of Canine Cosmetologists. The ISCC offers continuing education and strives to advance the pet stylist profession by developing and promoting recognizable standards of pet styling excellence. The ISCC also has a code of ethics for it's members and certified pet stylists.

To attain the MPS certification, Billy attended numerous seminars and passed a variety of comprehensive written and practical skills examinations. The rigorous course of study includes, "educational and validation programs encompassing understanding and overall knowledge of breed standards, basic and advanced clipper techniques, scissor and hand-stripping techniques as well as rules of perception, locomotion and geometrics as applied to the ideal sculpting and design of canine coats." For all you regular dog lovers, this means that Billy knows virtually everything there is to know about styling a pet safely, properly and artistically! Few groomers have successfully earned this certification due to the exceptionally challenging course content.

Congratulations Billy! In addition to his Master Pet Stylist (MPS) certification, Billy is a Certified Master Groomer (CMG), DermaTech Specialist (DTS) and Companion Animal Hygienist (CAH). Billy, we are proud of you and applaud your efforts to continue your education.

Don't Skimp on These Dog Care Necessities

You dog depends on you to keep him healthy and happy. So, spend your doggie dollars wisely on these necessities:

1. Regular veterinary care, including vaccinations and parasite preventatives, is critical. Don’t skimp on the “routine” care. Flea prevention is cheaper than treatment for a flea infestation. Heartworm preventatives can save your dog’s life and keep you from spending much more money to treat the disease.
2. A collar, leash, and proper identification (including a microchip) are essential and help keep Fido safe and sound.
3. Always buy the best food you can afford. Cheap food is cheap for a reason, and the old adage “you are what you eat” is true for dogs too. Moreover, when a manufacturer uses cheap ingredients, it has to bulk up the food with fillers to meet the government’s minimum nutritional requirements. As a result, the portion size for cheap food is typically larger than for more-expensive food with higher-quality, more-digestible ingredients. In the end, you’ll be buying more of the cheap food, which usually works out to be more expensive than buying the higher-quality food in the first place.
4. Purchasing a few good quality toys that will withstand your dog’s chewing strength is better than buying many cheap toys that break up and become choking or obstruction risks.
5. Buy yourself a pair of good walking shoes. Walking with your dog is free, and is good for you and your pooch. More than anything, our pets want our time, which costs nothing! You can save money by skipping the movie and babysitter and having game night at home with your cat in your lap and your dog at your feet.
6. Buy only essential grooming tools: for most dogs all you need is a good quality slicker brush and a metal comb. Many of the tools now sold to dog owners are really meant for professionals. These tools can be dangerous in unskilled hands. For example, clippers can scratch or cut skin, or render your pooch accidentally bald! The blades heat up quickly and can burn Fido’s skin. Many tools are just a waste of money. In your kitchen, you don’t really need a tool for each separate task, and the same is true for grooming. Save money by NOT buying the gimmick tools—they are often specialty items that do more dust-collecting than hair-collecting.
7. Forgo fancy spa products. There is no reason to purchase a shampoo for every doggie dirt situation either. A proper wash using a hypoallergenic dog shampoo and conditioner is sufficient. It’s crucial to use only those products formulated for canine skin. The skin and hair on humans and dogs have different pH requirements, which means that most human shampoos (including baby shampoos) dry out a dog’s coat or irritate her delicate skin. In some cases, the resulting skin problem may require veterinary attention. It should go without saying: never use household or industrial cleaners on a dog. The horror stories Billy could tell and does in our book Happy Dog Caring For Your Dog's Body, Mind and Spirit (available 9/1/09)

If you skimp on these necessities, you'll end up paying through the nose later.

Keeping Fido Clean and Healthy On A Budget

Times are tough all over right now and many people have to cut back on dog expenses. Thankfully, there are many things you can do at home to keep Fido healthy and in tip top shape while saving money. Here's a few suggestions:

1. Inspect your dog. Fido can’t tell you if he’s under the weather, or even if he's uncomfortably dirty—you have to discover these problems yourself. An inspection allows you to gather, track, monitor, and assess the state of your dog’s health and cleanliness in a systematic and thorough manner. Moreover you’ll discover medical and grooming issues well before they become painful to your dog and your pocketbook. Once a week, using your hands, eyes, ears and nose, give your pooch the once over. Fido's eyes, however, require daily inspections. Be sure you check every nook and cranny. The entire process takes about five to ten minutes, and your dog will appreciate the attention. If at any time you see, feel, smell, or sense trouble brewing, call your veterinarian immediately. Your inspection may save your dog's life (and your bank account).
2. Dog-proof your house. Many household items are dangerous to dogs as poisons, or as choking/obstruction risks. Spending a few minutes a day clearing your counters, closing drawers and doors, and putting away medicine, cleaners, food, and small objects will safeguard your dog. It’s easier to clean up than to pay a huge a vet bill or replace chewed or swallowed items.
3. Brush, brush, brush! Brushing saves time, money, and is an excellent opportunity to bond with your dog. Brushing also extends the time between professional grooming appointments, loosens and lifts dirt, and keeps skin healthy. Brushing removes the dead coat before it can fall off your dog or cause mats, which can increase professional grooming costs. For most dogs, a slicker brush is all you need. If your dog has extremely short hair, such as a Boxer, Doberman, Dalmatian or a Pug, you can use a rubber curry. You don’t even have to brush the entire dog every time. Brush a quarter of your dog each day and by the end of the week, he’ll have been completely brushed twice. Besides, more fur in the brush means you'll spend less on lint rollers and dry cleaning!
4. Be smart about products. Most people use far too much product when bathing their dog at home, which wastes money and makes rinsing difficult. Dilute shampoo in a bowl or separate bottle. Don’t dilute it in the original bottle because adding water can spoil the product. All you need is one quality hypoallergenic CANINE shampoo and one CANINE conditioner. Although they’re fun to use, you don’t need fancy spa products. And there is no reason to purchase a shampoo for every doggie dirt situation—a proper wash with a regular dog shampoo followed by a regular conditioner is sufficient. Make sure you rinse thoroughly because product left on the skin can cause painful and costly skin infections.
5. Ask for a shorter haircut. When your dog gets a haircut, ask your groomer to cut the coat a “step” (or slightly) shorter. The shorter haircut can stretch the time between professional appointments, but make sure the cut isn’t too short since exposed skin is prone to sunburn. And because you’ll extend the time between appointments, brushing becomes critical—the coat on some dogs can mat up overnight.

In our next post, we'll talk about the most efficient way to spend your dog care dollars.

Not Grooming Can Rise to Animal Cruelty: A Neglected Dog Gets A New Leash on Life

On many dogs, mats are caused when dead hairs become caught in the healthy coat and fuse together forming obstinate masses. Mats are uncomfortable because they pull the skin, trap debris and prevent the air flow necessary for healthy skin from reaching it. Regular brushing and grooming keeps mats at bay. However, if a dog is never brushed or groomed, bad things happen. The dog we are discussing today is an extreme case, but she demonstrates why grooming is crucial to canine health and happiness.

Recently, New Leash on Life, a Chicago dog rescue, asked Billy to help out this Cocker Spaniel that had come into their care.


This dog had been abandoned at a veterinary office across town and someone from the office brought the dog to the city pound. The New Leash on Life volunteers spotted the dog and immediately took her under their wing. They knew that this dog deserved a second chance! The dog was so completely covered in huge, old mats that they couldn't tell whether the dog was a boy or a girl. Eventually, they named her Lucy. New Leash called Billy to help this suffering dog and, of course, he was happy to assist.


As shown below, Lucy's back legs were actually matted together, which made every movement painful because her skin was constantly being pulled. Her ears had mats were so old, hard and heavy that Lucy couldn't even shake her head.





Lucy also smelled like an outhouse because the mats were thick with urine and feces. She had not been washed or probably handled in years. And yes, you read that correctly -- years. Clearly some unbelievably horrible "person" (and we use the term loosely) had not only neglected this dog, but had likely kept her in a cage and forced her to live in her own excrement and urine for an incredibly long time. Hopefully, whoever did this will pay for these shocking misdeeds when he or she reaches the Pearly Gates.

After an hour of gentle and careful clipping, Billy removed a

shocking amount of densely packed mats just from her ears.

The mats removed from Lucy's ears weighed over one pound.

Once her ears were free, Lucy calmed down and began to enjoy the attention and her relief and happiness (along with her smell) infused the air of Billy's salon.

Stacy is removing mats from Lucy's legs.

Billy and his crew lovingly and gently groomed Lucy for several hours! As the mats were cut away, the groomers found so much dandruff that it looked as if someone had sprinkled an entire can of Parmesan cheese over the dog. Because the mats were so thick, dense and numerous, air had never reached Lucy's skin and it was unhealthy, dry and flaky. Skin must breathe, which is one of the many reasons why regular grooming is crucial to a dog's health.

Lucy after all the mats were removed.

Lucy after her day at the spa -- clean and comfortable!

Once the mats were removed, Lucy's demeanor totally changed. Billy reported, "It was really nice to see how much better Lucy felt as we worked on her. At first, she was nippy, but she wasn't being mean. She was clearly in pain from the mats and incredibly uncomfortable from being forced to live in her own urine and feces for so long. I washed her 6 times myself, just to remove the smell and grime. After her haircut and baths, Lucy felt so good that she was wagging her tail and running around the salon. It's so sad to see a dog treated like this. I feel so bad for her and I'm glad that I was able to ease her suffering."


Before visiting Billy, Lucy weighed 36.8 pounds. Now that Billy and the others at his salon cared for her, she weighs only 29.4 pounds. Incredibly, Lucy has been carrying around 7.4 pounds of mats for years --that's about 25% of her body weight. We can only imagine the pain and discomfort she was forced to endure! But now, she is in a much better place and will begin enjoying a new life full of love and grooming.


According to Billy, "Lucy is a sweetheart and really a nice dog. I'm sure she'll be a wonderful addition to someone's home." For information on adopting Lucy, contact New Leash on Life and tell them Billy sent you!


Although Lucy did not come from a puppy mill, many puppy mill dogs are suffering the same fate, and most are not lucky enough to be rescued and then pampered by a Billy. Please think about helping dogs like Lucy that suffer from neglect and abuse. At the very least contact your legislator to demand that puppy mills be outlawed. Click here and here for more information.

Ask Billy: How often should my dog's nails be clipped?

Nancy from Chicago, writes: "I noticed that my partially paralyzed dog's nails grow faster. I suspect it is because he does not get to wear them down the way most non-handicapped dogs do since he uses a wheel cart. My question is, how often should his nails be clipped?"

Nancy, thanks for your question. It's a good one because it actually applies to all dogs, whether or not they are handicapped.

Let's start with a short nail anatomy lesson. At the end of each toe -- your dog has four per paw -- you'll find a nail. Depending on the dog, the nails may be dark, light or a combination. The “quick” is the fancy name for the blood vessels and nerves that grow through the center of each nail. The tip of the nail has no nerves or vessels and is safe to cut. However, if the quick is cut, it's a bloody mess and your pooch is in pain.

Some dogs have "dew claws," which are extra nails loosely attached to the inside of the leg a few inches above the front and/or back paws. Most dogs have one on each front paw, but some breeds, like the St. Bernard, Briard and Norwegian Lundehund, often have dew claws on their rear legs or even double sets of dew claws. Dew claws never contact the ground and, therefore, require frequent clipping.

Now to your question....

A dog's nails grow continually. However, walking around on hard surfaces helps keep the nails from growing too fast because friction naturally grinds them down. Because Mr. Magoo a.k.a Gooey, your cute pooch shown here, has nails that don't contact the ground, his nails appear to be growing faster than on a dog without physical limitations. Whether a dog is handicapped, less active due to age, illness or personality or just spends his time walking on softer surfaces, such as grass, carpet or sand, his nails aren't naturally worn down and require more frequent trimming.

If left uncut, nails can become painfully ingrown and infected and seriously impair a dog's gait and posture. And, that's NOT GOOD. Moreover, long nails can scratch your skin, floors and furniture or get caught in a crate, on your sweater or other places and rip off --OUCH!! So, regular nail care is critical for everyone!

I recommend that dogs have their nails trimmed about once a month. This rule, of course, varies by the individual dog and his genes and lifestyle. Obviously, the more active the dog, the more likely the nails will be naturally ground down and fewer trimmings will be needed. Once you hear the tell-tale clickety-click of nails on the floor or concrete, you'll know it's time for a pet-i-cure. For Mr. Magoo and other handicapped dogs, older dogs or pooches that stay inside or walk on softer surfaces, I recommend more frequent nail trims, perhaps even every two weeks.

It is the rare dog that requests a pet-i-cure and it's often difficult to see the quick and, thus, accidents happen in an instant. Therefore, I always recommend that people take their dogs to a trusted professional groomer or veterinarian for nail care. Professional nail care is not typically expensive and it will save you and your precious pooch a lot of pain and suffering.

Ask Billy: When should I begin grooming my new puppy?

Last week, this adorable Bearded Collie named Sookie came to Doggy Dooz, Billy's salon, for her very first professional grooming. Like all good groomers, Billy requires his clients to be fully vaccinated before their first appointment. Most puppies receive their final puppy shots at around four months old. Talk to your veterinarian about the best vaccination schedule for your puppy.

Puppies have immature immune systems, which makes them susceptible to infectious disease, many of which can be serious or deadly. Until your pup is fully vaccinated and your vet gives you the green light, try to keep her away from areas frequented by other dogs, such as parks and busy sidewalks. Unfortunately, some owners refuse to clean up after their dogs. The abandoned piles of festering poop can sometime transmit viruses, worms or other horrible parasites, so steer clear. As tempting as it may be to take your new puppy to visit a friend's dog, resist! Your friend's dog may be perfectly healthy, but still have been in contact with a sick dog. When visiting the vet, carry your puppy and avoid the dogs in the waiting room. Likewise, leave your pup at home when you shop for dog supplies.

Even though your puppy must wait before she can go to the salon, begin introducing her to grooming at home right away -- well, it's okay to give her a few days to get used to you first. The manner in which you introduce dog care determines your pup's lifelong attitude toward grooming or any other activity for that matter. If her early experiences are scary, stressful, and painful, your pup will quickly learn to hate and fear grooming. If, however, she associates grooming with pleasure, treats and your positive attention, she’ll flourish and enjoy a lifetime of grooming. In other words, don't toss her in the bath the first day!

Soon after your puppy arrives, begin petting and touching her all over: handle her paws, gently rub her ears, run your fingers in and around her mouth and rub her belly and undercarriage. The idea is to get her comfortable with the manhandling that is part and parcel of good grooming, whether by you or a professional. Your puppy doesn't need to know there's a method to your madness, she just needs to learn how much fun it is to be rubbed, petted and cared for by her new best friend. Be sure to share the petting and handling duties with others, whether family members or friends. Socializing your pup to accept other people in close proximity is good for you, the groomer, the veterinarian and anyone who comes near your precious pooch.

Ask Billy: How often should my dog go to a professional groomer?

Jenny from Indiana writes: "I have my dogs groomed every four weeks, is this too often?"

Well, Jenny your Shih-tzus certainly look cute and well cared for. As long as you have chosen a groomer who is contentious, patient and knowledgeable, you can groom your cuties as often as you'd like (and your pocketbook allows).

Whether your pooch enjoys a weekly, monthly or annual (gasp) appointment with a pro, YOU must brush, clean and care for your pooch as well. I'll teach you everything you need to know about this in Happy Dog: Caring For Your Dog's Body Mind and Spirit. Here's some advice to tide you over until the book's release in September.

I've broken dogs into categories that are easy to understand without an advanced degree in animal cosmetology: Hair, Multi-Length Fur, Uniform Fur and Hairless. While technically, anything growing out of a follicle is "hair," I believe that my categories will allow you to care for your dog properly and interpret what you see growing all over your pooch.

Shih-tzus, Poodles and some Doodles, Maltese, Lhasa Apsos, Cocker Spaniels and other dogs with hair-like coats (Hair Dogs) should be professionally groomed at least every 4-6 weeks. Hair dogs tend the become matted rather quickly, so frequent professional grooming in addition to brushing regularly at home will help keep a Hair Dog pretty, comfortable and healthy. (If you've eaten recently, you don't even want to think about what I've found caught in the mats of dogs...well if you do, check out the 1/15/09 The Inspection Connection entry). In addition, a Hair Dog's coat grows until it is cut so she requires an appointment with professional who can wield scissors in a skilled and safe manner. (This does not mean you wielding a pair of professional clippers.)

Dogs with coats of mixed length are what I call Multi-Length Fur Dogs. These dogs often appear to be wearing fur pants around their back ends and legs (notice I did not say blue jeans, sweat pants or any other mini-human clothing). Some also have longer fur on their tail, undercarriage or beard. Golden Retrievers, Collies, Pomeranians and many mixed breeds also fall into this category. The dead, shorter fur from these dogs usually ends up your floors, clothing and furniture. The dead, longer fur requires trimming and, if not properly brushed out of the coat by you at home, will form mats. A professional grooming every 6-12 weeks helps your Multi-Length pooch's coat stay manageable, comfortable and clean.

Just because you're a short-haired pooch, doesn't mean that you should miss out on all the fun and pampering that happens at a good grooming salon. Moreover, if you've been reading our blog, you already know that short-haired dogs require more than semi-annual grooming. (If you haven't been reading our blog, shame on you! Now is a fine time to begin -- we'll wait while you catch up.)

Dogs with fur of the same length (Uniform Fur Dogs) should visit a professional groomer every 12-16 weeks. If you have a Uniform Fur Dog, such as a Bulldog, Bully breed, Dalmatian, Pug or Beagle, you should also be brushing your pooch at least a few times a week to help remove his dead fur before it falls off the dog and all over your house. A professional grooming removes excess dead fur and pampers your Uniform Fur Dog with a deep cleaning.

Hairless dogs need professional care too. If you have a Hairless breed, such as the Chinese Crested, Peruvian Inca Orchid, Hairless Khala and Mexican Hairless, take your non-furry friend to the groomer about every 4-8 weeks. A Hairless dog requires bathing, exfoliating and a bit of moisturizer. Some Hairless dogs do have a dash of hair and that hair needs regular brushing with a small, extra gentle slicker brush. Having an experienced professional groomer care for your Hairless pooch helps you monitor his sensitive skin, which is prone to rashes and pimples.

Ask Billy: "Why won't my dog's Johnson go back in?"

We've just received an interesting, but potentially embarrassing question from a friend of a cute little white dog. We've changed the names of those involved to protect the pooch--we don't want to hurt the little guy's chances with the gals at the dog park. So let's just call him "Dog Doe."

"Puppysitter" writes: "I was recently babysitting the most adorable 1 year old dog for a couple of weeks and we encountered a small problem. This neutered pup became aroused after humping a teddy bear and his little pecker peeped out. Unfortunately, the hair down there was longer that it should have been, and got caught in the shaft, which prevented his lil lipstick from going all the way back in. It was out for a day before we realized it, and he kept licking it. It was obvious he was irritated. When we took him into the vet's office- she gave him a shot for inflammation and lubricated him to remove the hair. After trimming the area, she gently tucked the unmentionable away in its place and put him on UTI medication in case he developed an infection. We were relieved when it was all over. "Dog Doe" is happy and carefree once again.

Is there a way to prevent this beyond simply puppy-scaping?"

Dear Puppysitter, thanks for asking a delicate question and thanks for taking Dog Doe to the vet right away! If you had waited, the poor guy could have developed a severe and painful infection.

Keeping the genital area clean and tidy on male and female dogs is extremely important. This true for all dogs, although dogs with Hair (rather than Fur) need some extra attention "down there." I mean, beyond the pooch's self-cleaning ability.

The coat on Hair dogs (such as Poodles, Doodles, Porties, Shih-Tzus, Yorkies, Beardies, Maltese, and mixes) keeps growing. That means, unless the hair is cut, it will get longer and bushier and then you risk retraction problems. If the hair is left uncut, it can wrap around the penis, which makes it too big to retract. Left out, it will dry up and it has no lubrication to help the retraction process. Occasionally, you'll see a dog with longer fur have a problem, but it's rare. Moreover, unkept genitals can cause a host of other unpleasant issues, such as mats, crusty debris--we could go on, but this is a family blog.

Regardless of your dog's coat type, you must keep his genitals neat and tidy. Whether Fido has a penis or a vagina, discharge is normal unless it becomes excessive. Moreover, if a male dog isn't neutered, you'll have lots of discharge, which contributes to the retraction danger. (Yes, another reason to neuter!) Keeping the genitals clean and tidy also prevents mats from developing and debris from hiding and exposes the area to air, which as we all know is a freeing feeling.

I recommend that the genital area be trimmed short or shaved on all dogs that have a lot of hair or fur there. Please, don’t attempt to cut or shave this area yourself. This is an extremely delicate area that requires the expert hand of a professional groomer--a good groomer with a gentle and steady touch. If your dog has Hair that grows, he'll need to go in for a genital touch up about every 4-6 weeks. Otherwise, see the groomer when the fur gets long or thick.

And one more thing, Puppysitter: I recommend that you keep all your teddy bears on high shelves, especially those under age 16.

Ask Billy: Do I really have to brush my short-haired dog?

At least 3,453,897 times a week, Billy (and now Jill) comes across someone who claims that his or her short haired dog "never needs to be brushed."  Hearing this type of blasphemy is our cross to bear, but we feel truly sorry for all those dirty, furry short-haired dogs out there. Moreover, (solely for emphasis) Billy has been known to lift up the owner's pant leg and check the socks for the tell-tale fur coating.  Fur covered socks are always a dead giveaway that you've been neglecting your brushing duties.  

ALL dogs except, of course, the truly hairless must be brushed regularly. And by regularly, we mean several times a week--at least.  It's good for Fido and for you.

In addition to the emotional satisfaction of basking in your attention, the benefits of brushing are numerous.  Brushing removes Fido's dead fur, which dulls the coat, distributes the fur's natural oils and simulates blood flow to the skin.  As a result, your regularly brushed pooch will have a clean, healthy, sleek, shiny coat just like the beautiful Bella shown above.  Besides, proper brushing feels really, really good--like a massage.  Just be gentle and don't brush over the same spot too many times.  (In our book, you'll learn all the proper brushing techniques.) Your best friend certainly deserves some pampering in exchange for all that unconditional love. 

The benefits of brushing don't stop there.  You get to relax and enjoy quality time with your best pal.  In addition, you'll see much less fur on your furniture, clothes, floor and socks; brushing removes the dead fur before it falls off your dog.  Just think of all the money you'll save on lint rollers and dry cleaning!

The appropriate brush to use depends on how short Fido's fur actually is.  Dogs with very short coats like the Dalmatian, Boxer, Pit Bull, Smooth Chihuahua, Great Dane, Whippet, Greyhound, Bulldog and Smooth Dachshund require a "rubber curry."  If your dog's coat is a bit longer, like a Lab, Mastiff, Golden Retriever, German Shepherd or Long Haired Dachshund purchase a good quality "slicker."  Always check the wire bristles on your arm to determine if they are too sharp.  Clean your curry or slicker regularly and throw it away the moment it is damaged or just gross.

Photo of Bella by: Michael Vistia, Vistia Designs

Ask Billy: How do I make a better top knot (pony tail)?

Helen writes: "Hi Billy.  I have a grooming question if you don't mind.  My Shih Tzu Raja wears his hair up in a sort of topsy tail.  What do you recommend I do about those pesky hairs that come out of the tail and fall over his eyes?  I'm not big on sprays.  Any ideas for me?"

Helen, thanks for your question, it's a good one because many people don't want to use products to keep hairs inside the pony tail, which is technically called a top knot.  

When you see a show dog with a perfect top knot, you can bet that that dog spends all of his off time with his hair wrapped in plastic.  The plastic protects the hair and prevents breakage.  Believe it or not, the oil from human hands breaks down the hair and causes it to break off, not to mention brushing and playing.

The shorter hairs you're seeing around Raja's top knot are caused by everyday wear and tear.  For instance, every time he smiles, yawns and bats his eyes at you, those hairs fall out of the top knot!  Unfortunately, there's nothing to prevent that except to wrap up his hair in plastic like a show dog.  However, you don't want to kiss Raja through a wad of Saran wrap.  Leave the Saran in the kitchen and do what I do for my clients.  

I make 2 pony tails, one in front of the other.  Start in the front right above Raja's eyes.  This first top knot will hold all the shorter hair and should be less full than the second one.  Be sure not to pull too tight or Raja will loook like he's had a run in with a bottle of Botox.  For the second top knot, gather the longer hair right behind the first one.  After you've made both top knots, rubber band them together, again being careful not to make it too tight. If Raja looks like Priscilla Presley on Dancing With Stars or Florence Henderson, you'll know that the knot is too tight.  For any short hairs that still fall out, you can cut them short or be patient and let them grow out.  I recommend the second choice.

How often can I wash my dog?

Today, a client came into Doggy Dooz, Billy's salon, and asked this question:

"My vet said that I shouldn't wash my Husky more than twice a year because it would make his fur fall out.  Billy, is this true?"

Once I recovered from the shock of this treachery and pulled myself up off the floor, I realized that there's a whole lot of misinformation floating around out there--even from educated experts.  The truth is, the only thing I know of (other than severe trauma) that can remove a dog's fur en masse is Nair.  Nair, however, is a human product and as such should NEVER EVER be used on a dog.   Now, back to the question.  

All dog's must be washed way more than twice a year.  If not for the sake of your nose, bedspread and sofa, then for the health of Fido's skin and coat (not to mention his self-esteem).  Imagine how you'd feel if your hair was so long that it touched the ground everywhere you went and you smelled all your friends' butts and never came near soap. 

As long as you wash your dog correctly, you can wash as often as you'd like.  In my book, I'll teach you step-by-step how to wash your dog properly and easily at home.  In the meantime, use products formulated for dogs and rinse, rinse, rinse.  I wash many clients every week and I wash Zeke and Arthur at least once a week.  They've never lost their coat or even had a skin problem.