Ask Billy: When Should I Neuter My Male Dog?

Jamie and her Portuguese Water Dog Oscar wrote in and posed an important question about neutering:

I have a 5 month old Portie named Oscar. I am getting conflicting advice as to when is the best time to neuter him, which I absolutely am going to do.

My parents who have Oscar's older brother (5 years old now) had him neutered at 7 months. My vet says anytime now is okay to be neutered. However, the confusion is that Oscar's breeder asked me when I picked him up to wait until he's at least 18 months old.

My parent's dog is in perfect health so maybe they have the right answer. My vet is an expert in neutering so maybe she has the right answer. Finally, the person who breeds the dog and is the expert in Porties might have the right answer. What do you recommend and what are the pro’s and cons of all the choices?

Jamie, thank you so much for your question. Neutering often brings up a wide variety of opinions, especially when people have different, but equally valid viewpoints.

Let's start with what happens when your dog is neutered. (You may want to have Oscar leave the room.) The veterinarian will examine and sedate your pooch and then surgically remove his testicles from the scrotum. The scrotum (aka "sac"), however, remains and eventually shrinks to a barely noticeable size.

Jamie, I applaud your commitment to neutering Oscar and helping the animal community. Unfortunately, millions of healthy unwanted dogs and cats are euthanized each year in the United States alone. Quite simply, a neutered male (or spayed female) cannot make puppies and, therefore, won’t be adding to the pet overpopulation problem.

Breeder's perspective:
In addition, to finding qualified homes for their puppies, reputable breeders are typically interested in breeding for specific attributes and finding the next Top Dog Model – meaning they want to find show quality dogs.

Once a dog is about 18 months old, he's fully mature. Accordingly, a breeder (or anyone for that matter) can reliably assess the dog for show qualities, such as bite, coat, structural soundness and temperament. If a dog is neutered before he's at least 18 months, you can't reliably guage what he’ll be like as an adult. Just as it’s impossible to look at a 7 year old girl and determine if she’ll grow up to be a supermodel, we can’t look at a male pooch under 18 months old and determine if he’ll win Best in Show. Moreover, a neutered or spayed dog cannot compete in the show ring.

Although I don't know Oscar's breeder, he or she may be recommending you wait to neuter him so he can be assessed to determine if he qualifies as a show or stud dog. In addition, some people believe that a dog doesn't fully physically mature until he reaches a certain age. Interestingly, the American Animal Hospital Association reports that genetics, not hormones, are the primary factor in determining size:

Neutering does dramatically reduce the amount of testosterone in a male pup's system, which may give him a bit less muscle mass in the long run, but won't affect his height or the size of his frame. Actually, studies have shown that dogs spayed or neutered early (at 16 weeks or younger) tend to be slighter larger than those altered later in life.

Neuter A Pet Early
If Oscar is going to be a pet, there’s no need to wait and see if he'll be qualified for the show ring. Therefore, I agree with your parents, your veterinarian and most experts and recommend neutering Oscar as soon as possible after he's 5 months old. I say the earlier the better so Oscar (or any male) has no opportunity to develop any bad habits associated with testosterone, a powerful male sex hormone.

When a dog is neutered before he sexually matures at about 6-9 months, he’s much less likely to develop the annoying and dangerous behavioral habits associated with romance and testosterone. Contrary to myth, neutering is unlikely to affect your dog’s playfulness, interest in work, friendliness or personality. Obedience training, therefore, remains important whether or not a dog is neutered (or spayed).

How is Neutering Beneficial? Let Me Count The Ways....
Neutered dogs typically live longer than intact males because there’s no testosterone urging Fido to search out females for romance. While roaming, your dog is more likely to be hit by a car, be attacked by another dog or animal, be stolen or encounter many other dangers, like poisoning or disease.

Likewise, because neutered Fido no longer has the strong desire for romance, he’s less likely to mark his territory to advertise for mates. Thus, he's much less likely to urinate in your house or yard or on every single tree encountered during a walk. Although the evidence isn’t conclusive, loads of research has shown that intact dogs are more aggressive because high testosterone levels may cause them to fight over females.

Moreover, an intact male is a target for other males, even those who are neutered. Males can detect the high testosterone levels in an intact dog and dominance challenges often result. Even Arthur, my neutered Cocker Spaniel who is normally the world’s most gentle dog, bears his teeth when he sees or smells an intact male anywhere near by.

Neutering Offers Many Health Benefits
Testicular cancer in older dogs is a significant life-threatening possibility. By removing the stuff inside the scrotum, the risk of testicular cancer is eliminated.

Neutering cannot totally protect a dog from prostate cancer or other prostate problems. Neutering, however, does significantly decrease the risk of prostate enlargement or infection and reduce urinary problems in later life. In addition, a neutered male is less likely to suffer from testosterone-related health issues like testicular tumors and certain hernias.

Always Talk To Your Vet
Neutering is a medical procedure and, like all medical procedures, carries some risks. Indeed, neutering is no guarantee that any behavioral problem will be eliminated since Fido will still have some testosterone coursing through his veins. (Please note, after the procedure, it may takes a few months for Fido's testosterone levels to subside.) Bottom line: Because testosterone levels are significantly reduced, many people find a neutered dog more manageable.

The benefits of neutering far, far outweigh any risks or cons. Always discuss the pros and cons of neutering for your individual dog with your vet.

Finding Free Or Low Cost Spay And Neuter Clinics
Communities around the country offer free or low cost spay and neuter clinics. Check with local animal shelters for more information. Find local clinics here:

ASPCA
HSUS
SPAY-USA

For More Information
Check out American Humane's article on how spaying and neutering affects our furry friends and our community. Look at these articles too:

ASPCA: 10 Top Reasons to Spay or Neuter Your Pet
American Animal Hospital Association: Neutering Your Pet

Neither Billy nor Jill is a veterinarian. As with any medical procedure, always consult with your vet before making any decisions.

Ask Billy Update: Abbie is House-Trained!

Last April, we met Abbie and her mom Judy when Judy asked Billy for some help with potty training. Click here to read Billy's Potty Training 101 advice.

Abbie will be celebrating her first Halloween.

Judy checked in with us in June. Judy reported that Abbie was making progress and asked for some help working through a few minor setbacks.

We are pleased to report that Abbie is now fully potty trained. High fives to Abbie and Judy! Kudos to Judy's husband who pitched in too! After all, the human half of the team must demonstrate tremendous patience and dedication when training a furry family member. Judy notes that patience and remembering that "she is just a puppy" were significant factors in Abbie's success.

Abbie turns one on November 14th and everyone in Happy Dog Land sends her big birthday smooches!

Ask Billy: Why Won't My Dog's Johnson Go Back In?

We've received an interesting, but potentially embarrassing question from a friend of a cute little white dog. We've changed the names of those involved to protect the pooch--we don't want to hurt the little guy's chances with the gals at the dog park. So let's just call him "Dog Doe."

"Puppysitter" writes: "I was recently babysitting the most adorable 1 year old dog for a couple of weeks and we encountered a small problem. This neutered pup became aroused after humping a teddy bear and his little pecker peeped out. Unfortunately, the hair down there was longer that it should have been, and got caught in the shaft, which prevented his lil' lipstick from going all the way back in. It was out for a day before we realized it, and he kept licking it. It was obvious he was irritated. When we took him into the vet's office- she gave him a shot for inflammation and lubricated him to remove the hair. After trimming the area, she gently tucked the unmentionable away in its place and put him on UTI medication in case he developed an infection. We were relieved when it was all over. "Dog Doe" is happy and carefree once again.

Is there a way to prevent this beyond simply puppy-scaping?"

Dear Puppysitter, thanks for asking a delicate question and thanks for taking Dog Doe to the vet right away! If you had waited, the poor guy could have developed a severe and painful infection.

Keeping the genital area clean and tidy on male and female dogs is extremely important. This true for all dogs, although dogs with coats that require trimming need some extra attention "down there." I mean, beyond the pooch's self-cleaning ability.

The coat on Hair dogs (such as Poodles, Doodles, Porties, Shih-Tzus, Yorkies, Beardies, Maltese, and mixes) keeps growing. That means, unless the hair is cut, it will get longer and bushier and then you risk retraction problems. If the hair is left uncut, it can wrap around the penis, which makes it too big (or wide) to retract. Left out, it will dry up and have no lubrication to help the retraction process. Occasionally, you'll see a dog with a coat that sheds when it reaches a genetically pre-determined length have a problem, but it's rare. Moreover, unkept genitals can cause a host of other unpleasant issues, such as mats, crusty debris--we could go on, but this is a family blog.

Regardless of your dog's coat type, you must keep his genitals neat and tidy. Whether Fido has a penis or a vagina, discharge is normal unless it becomes excessive. Moreover, if a male dog isn't neutered, you'll have lots of discharge, which contributes to the retraction danger. (Yes, another reason to neuter!) Keeping the genitals clean and tidy also prevents mats from developing and debris from hiding and exposes the area to air, which as we all know is a freeing feeling.

I recommend that the genital area be trimmed short or shaved on all dogs that have a lot of hair or fur there. Please, don’t attempt to cut or shave this area yourself. This is an extremely delicate area that requires the expert hand of a professional groomer--a good groomer with a gentle and steady touch and one without a caffeine addiction. If your dog has Hair that grows, he'll need to go in for a genital touch up about every 4-6 weeks. Otherwise, see the groomer when the fur gets long or thick.

And one more thing, Puppysitter: I recommend that you keep all your teddy bears on high shelves, especially those under age 16.

Ask Billy: Potty Training Follow Up

Abbie Bella with the grandson's pacifier.

We first met Abbie Bella in April when her mom Judy asked Billy for potty training advice. Abbie is now seven months old, has graduated from her first obedience class and been micro-chipped and spayed. Bravo Judy! Training your pooch, fixing your dog and giving her permanent identification is not only responsible, but will help keep her safe and healthy.

Judy has been following Billy's advice for about two months. Here's a progress report:

"Abbie was sleeping with me, but then she would get up all the time and I would have to get up to make sure she wasn’t tinkling or pooping on the carpet. I was losing a lot of sleep and couldn’t handle that. Since May 29, I have been putting Abbie in her crate in the bedroom right beside my bed, close to my pillow, where she can see me. First, we will get in the bed, cuddle and play awhile and then I will crate her for the night. Abbie now sleeps through the night without having to go out before 6am. On the weekends, we tend to sleep a little later, but she whines when she needs to go out. I take her out and then come back to bed for awhile and she usually goes back to sleep!"

Way to go Judy! Billy is a firm believer in crate training. Abbie is safe when she's in her crate. She's also learning to control herself because she wants to keep her personal space clean. Just be sure to race her outside as soon as you open the crate door. Praise her and give treats when she goes to the bathroom outside.

"I'm following Billy's advice and taking Abbie out right when I get in the door at home, after eating and on an hourly basis up to bedtime each night. Abbie's been getting the hang of potty training, but we did have two accidents this past weekend, both in the hall, but I am trying to "watch" her more and take her out more. It’s been a long time since I had a puppy to care for and I was used to my older dogs going and coming as they pleased out the doggie door."

Every time Abbie goes out the doggie door, give her a treat and make a big fuss with lots of praise and kisses. She'll learn that using the door brings all sorts of positive attention. Positive reinforcement is a wonderful thing!

Moreover, a few accidents is not bad -- potty training is a process that requires patience! Judy agrees and notes that it has been a long time since she had a puppy in the house. She writes, "I think Abbie will eventually understand, I just have to be patient while she is learning. She is a puppy and I am trying to think of her like the grandson as far as 'potty training' is concerned. He is learning too and still has accidents. Puppies are like children at least mine are."

Although Abbie's potty training is progressing well, Judy tells us that once Abbie's paws hit the carpet she sometimes has an accident. We're not sure exactly why carpet confuses Abbie. Perhaps, her super-powered canine nose is able to detect smells or urine lingering in the carpet from other dogs. There's a chance that when she was a new pup her cage was lined with a piece of carpet, a mat or a towel and she's used to the sensation on her feet. The fact that she has been recently spayed could be the reason. The spaying procedure removes the ovaries, fallopian tubes and uterus. Occasionally a dog will suffer a potty training setback after this type of major surgery. (Here's an informative article about the spaying process.)

Judy, no matter the reason for a setback, keep trying and continue your routine--you're doing a fabulous job! Don't get frustrated and stock up on Petastic, our favorite stain and odor remover. Your patience and care will help Abbie become house trained quickly and let her know how much you love her!

Tell Abbie we're proud of her progress and give her a hug from her friends in Happy Dog Land!

If you need advice or have a question about dog care, send it to Billy at info@happydogland.com. We'll post the answer here. Please include a photo of your pooch so we can show him/her off to everyone in Happy Dog Land.

Ask Billy: Another Portie Inquiry

Kim from Facebook writes: I was reading your blog that you did online on Monday about the PWD and the First Dog. I wanted to know how large do they grow or are they miniature breeds like dachshunds? Thanks!

Hi Kim, thanks so much for your question. Porties are considered medium-sized dogs. As adults, they weigh about 30-60 pounds (although I've seen bigger). Porties measure about 17-23 inches tall at the shoulders. Porties often appear bigger than they really are because of their fluffy coats.

Take Zeke, for example. People often think he weighs 70 pounds, but under all those curls, he weighs only 48 pounds.

Ask Billy: Portuguese Water Dog Q and A

We are extremely excited to report that Billy just completed a live chat on the Washington Post's website this morning. Click here to see the chat.

We thank Katherine who just emailed us the proper way to say Portuguese Water Dog in Portuguese: Cão de Água Português!

If you have any questions on Porties or any dog, please send them in and we'll be happy to answer them.

Ask Billy: What's up with the Puli's coat?

Sandra from Chicago writes: I was watching the Westminster Dog Show last week and saw the Puli. Every time I see a Puli, I wonder how they are groomed. I always forget to ask you and thought this a perfect place to do so. Love your blog and I tell every dog owner and/or lover I can about it.

Sandra, thanks for your question and kind words. 

Pulis are indeed interesting, beautiful and unusual dogs.  The fancy hair do you saw on the "show" Puli is called a "corded coat."  The corded coat resembles dreadlocks.  Do you remember the Bud Light Commercial from a few years back?  The guy used his Puli as a wig so he could go inside a bar and drink a cold one.

The coat on a Puli or any other corded dog, such as the Komondor and even Poodles and Havanese, is not groomed in the traditional manner: brush, brush, brush and wash and dry. Making and maintaining the cords, however, takes just as much work (if not more). 

A corded coat requires a huge commitment. On many dogs, the coat doesn't naturally start cording until the pooch is about one year old. Moreover, it can take years to develop all those beautiful long cords.

The cords are really well manicured mats that are shaped into long tubes. The owner or groomer gently pulls apart the mats into the appropriate size. The cords are never brushed. When washing a corded dog, the coat cannot be scrubbed. Rather, the dog is soaked in a tub and then the cords are squeezed -- like when you wring out a mop. Scrubbing makes the cords frizzy and breaks up the mats (cords) you've worked so hard to produce. Rinsing is crucial because the cords can trap soap near the skin. 

Corded coats require specialized grooming at home and with a professional. Talk to a trusted breeder to help you find a capable groomer. Alternatively, you can groom a Puli or other corded coat dog in the traditional manner and have a fluffy ball of fur to snuggle up with at night.

Ask Billy: Why does my dog like to sleep on dirty laundry?

Sammy and Rachel from West Bloomfield, Michigan write: "This is our dog Mulligan, why does he like to sleep on our dirty laundry?"

Well girls, you ask an interesting question. You may be surprised to hear that people ask me that same thing all the time.

To a dog, smell is just as important as sight. Seeing you makes your dog feel safe and loved. If he can't see you, smelling you makes him happy and comfortable too. You leave your scent everywhere you go, especially on the clothes you sleep in or wear all day. So, when Mulligan finds the pile of dirty clothes, he thinks that he's won the scent lottery. Besides, the pile also makes for a comfie pillow.

Ask Billy: How often should my dog's nails be clipped?

Nancy from Chicago, writes: "I noticed that my partially paralyzed dog's nails grow faster. I suspect it is because he does not get to wear them down the way most non-handicapped dogs do since he uses a wheel cart. My question is, how often should his nails be clipped?"

Nancy, thanks for your question. It's a good one because it actually applies to all dogs, whether or not they are handicapped.

Let's start with a short nail anatomy lesson. At the end of each toe -- your dog has four per paw -- you'll find a nail. Depending on the dog, the nails may be dark, light or a combination. The “quick” is the fancy name for the blood vessels and nerves that grow through the center of each nail. The tip of the nail has no nerves or vessels and is safe to cut. However, if the quick is cut, it's a bloody mess and your pooch is in pain.

Some dogs have "dew claws," which are extra nails loosely attached to the inside of the leg a few inches above the front and/or back paws. Most dogs have one on each front paw, but some breeds, like the St. Bernard, Briard and Norwegian Lundehund, often have dew claws on their rear legs or even double sets of dew claws. Dew claws never contact the ground and, therefore, require frequent clipping.

Now to your question....

A dog's nails grow continually. However, walking around on hard surfaces helps keep the nails from growing too fast because friction naturally grinds them down. Because Mr. Magoo a.k.a Gooey, your cute pooch shown here, has nails that don't contact the ground, his nails appear to be growing faster than on a dog without physical limitations. Whether a dog is handicapped, less active due to age, illness or personality or just spends his time walking on softer surfaces, such as grass, carpet or sand, his nails aren't naturally worn down and require more frequent trimming.

If left uncut, nails can become painfully ingrown and infected and seriously impair a dog's gait and posture. And, that's NOT GOOD. Moreover, long nails can scratch your skin, floors and furniture or get caught in a crate, on your sweater or other places and rip off --OUCH!! So, regular nail care is critical for everyone!

I recommend that dogs have their nails trimmed about once a month. This rule, of course, varies by the individual dog and his genes and lifestyle. Obviously, the more active the dog, the more likely the nails will be naturally ground down and fewer trimmings will be needed. Once you hear the tell-tale clickety-click of nails on the floor or concrete, you'll know it's time for a pet-i-cure. For Mr. Magoo and other handicapped dogs, older dogs or pooches that stay inside or walk on softer surfaces, I recommend more frequent nail trims, perhaps even every two weeks.

It is the rare dog that requests a pet-i-cure and it's often difficult to see the quick and, thus, accidents happen in an instant. Therefore, I always recommend that people take their dogs to a trusted professional groomer or veterinarian for nail care. Professional nail care is not typically expensive and it will save you and your precious pooch a lot of pain and suffering.

Ask Billy: When should I begin grooming my new puppy?

Last week, this adorable Bearded Collie named Sookie came to Doggy Dooz, Billy's salon, for her very first professional grooming. Like all good groomers, Billy requires his clients to be fully vaccinated before their first appointment. Most puppies receive their final puppy shots at around four months old. Talk to your veterinarian about the best vaccination schedule for your puppy.

Puppies have immature immune systems, which makes them susceptible to infectious disease, many of which can be serious or deadly. Until your pup is fully vaccinated and your vet gives you the green light, try to keep her away from areas frequented by other dogs, such as parks and busy sidewalks. Unfortunately, some owners refuse to clean up after their dogs. The abandoned piles of festering poop can sometime transmit viruses, worms or other horrible parasites, so steer clear. As tempting as it may be to take your new puppy to visit a friend's dog, resist! Your friend's dog may be perfectly healthy, but still have been in contact with a sick dog. When visiting the vet, carry your puppy and avoid the dogs in the waiting room. Likewise, leave your pup at home when you shop for dog supplies.

Even though your puppy must wait before she can go to the salon, begin introducing her to grooming at home right away -- well, it's okay to give her a few days to get used to you first. The manner in which you introduce dog care determines your pup's lifelong attitude toward grooming or any other activity for that matter. If her early experiences are scary, stressful, and painful, your pup will quickly learn to hate and fear grooming. If, however, she associates grooming with pleasure, treats and your positive attention, she’ll flourish and enjoy a lifetime of grooming. In other words, don't toss her in the bath the first day!

Soon after your puppy arrives, begin petting and touching her all over: handle her paws, gently rub her ears, run your fingers in and around her mouth and rub her belly and undercarriage. The idea is to get her comfortable with the manhandling that is part and parcel of good grooming, whether by you or a professional. Your puppy doesn't need to know there's a method to your madness, she just needs to learn how much fun it is to be rubbed, petted and cared for by her new best friend. Be sure to share the petting and handling duties with others, whether family members or friends. Socializing your pup to accept other people in close proximity is good for you, the groomer, the veterinarian and anyone who comes near your precious pooch.

Ask Billy: How often should my dog go to a professional groomer?

Jenny from Indiana writes: "I have my dogs groomed every four weeks, is this too often?"

Well, Jenny your Shih-tzus certainly look cute and well cared for. As long as you have chosen a groomer who is contentious, patient and knowledgeable, you can groom your cuties as often as you'd like (and your pocketbook allows).

Whether your pooch enjoys a weekly, monthly or annual (gasp) appointment with a pro, YOU must brush, clean and care for your pooch as well. I'll teach you everything you need to know about this in Happy Dog: Caring For Your Dog's Body Mind and Spirit. Here's some advice to tide you over until the book's release in September.

I've broken dogs into categories that are easy to understand without an advanced degree in animal cosmetology: Hair, Multi-Length Fur, Uniform Fur and Hairless. While technically, anything growing out of a follicle is "hair," I believe that my categories will allow you to care for your dog properly and interpret what you see growing all over your pooch.

Shih-tzus, Poodles and some Doodles, Maltese, Lhasa Apsos, Cocker Spaniels and other dogs with hair-like coats (Hair Dogs) should be professionally groomed at least every 4-6 weeks. Hair dogs tend the become matted rather quickly, so frequent professional grooming in addition to brushing regularly at home will help keep a Hair Dog pretty, comfortable and healthy. (If you've eaten recently, you don't even want to think about what I've found caught in the mats of dogs...well if you do, check out the 1/15/09 The Inspection Connection entry). In addition, a Hair Dog's coat grows until it is cut so she requires an appointment with professional who can wield scissors in a skilled and safe manner. (This does not mean you wielding a pair of professional clippers.)

Dogs with coats of mixed length are what I call Multi-Length Fur Dogs. These dogs often appear to be wearing fur pants around their back ends and legs (notice I did not say blue jeans, sweat pants or any other mini-human clothing). Some also have longer fur on their tail, undercarriage or beard. Golden Retrievers, Collies, Pomeranians and many mixed breeds also fall into this category. The dead, shorter fur from these dogs usually ends up your floors, clothing and furniture. The dead, longer fur requires trimming and, if not properly brushed out of the coat by you at home, will form mats. A professional grooming every 6-12 weeks helps your Multi-Length pooch's coat stay manageable, comfortable and clean.

Just because you're a short-haired pooch, doesn't mean that you should miss out on all the fun and pampering that happens at a good grooming salon. Moreover, if you've been reading our blog, you already know that short-haired dogs require more than semi-annual grooming. (If you haven't been reading our blog, shame on you! Now is a fine time to begin -- we'll wait while you catch up.)

Dogs with fur of the same length (Uniform Fur Dogs) should visit a professional groomer every 12-16 weeks. If you have a Uniform Fur Dog, such as a Bulldog, Bully breed, Dalmatian, Pug or Beagle, you should also be brushing your pooch at least a few times a week to help remove his dead fur before it falls off the dog and all over your house. A professional grooming removes excess dead fur and pampers your Uniform Fur Dog with a deep cleaning.

Hairless dogs need professional care too. If you have a Hairless breed, such as the Chinese Crested, Peruvian Inca Orchid, Hairless Khala and Mexican Hairless, take your non-furry friend to the groomer about every 4-8 weeks. A Hairless dog requires bathing, exfoliating and a bit of moisturizer. Some Hairless dogs do have a dash of hair and that hair needs regular brushing with a small, extra gentle slicker brush. Having an experienced professional groomer care for your Hairless pooch helps you monitor his sensitive skin, which is prone to rashes and pimples.

Ask Billy: "Why won't my dog's Johnson go back in?"

We've just received an interesting, but potentially embarrassing question from a friend of a cute little white dog. We've changed the names of those involved to protect the pooch--we don't want to hurt the little guy's chances with the gals at the dog park. So let's just call him "Dog Doe."

"Puppysitter" writes: "I was recently babysitting the most adorable 1 year old dog for a couple of weeks and we encountered a small problem. This neutered pup became aroused after humping a teddy bear and his little pecker peeped out. Unfortunately, the hair down there was longer that it should have been, and got caught in the shaft, which prevented his lil lipstick from going all the way back in. It was out for a day before we realized it, and he kept licking it. It was obvious he was irritated. When we took him into the vet's office- she gave him a shot for inflammation and lubricated him to remove the hair. After trimming the area, she gently tucked the unmentionable away in its place and put him on UTI medication in case he developed an infection. We were relieved when it was all over. "Dog Doe" is happy and carefree once again.

Is there a way to prevent this beyond simply puppy-scaping?"

Dear Puppysitter, thanks for asking a delicate question and thanks for taking Dog Doe to the vet right away! If you had waited, the poor guy could have developed a severe and painful infection.

Keeping the genital area clean and tidy on male and female dogs is extremely important. This true for all dogs, although dogs with Hair (rather than Fur) need some extra attention "down there." I mean, beyond the pooch's self-cleaning ability.

The coat on Hair dogs (such as Poodles, Doodles, Porties, Shih-Tzus, Yorkies, Beardies, Maltese, and mixes) keeps growing. That means, unless the hair is cut, it will get longer and bushier and then you risk retraction problems. If the hair is left uncut, it can wrap around the penis, which makes it too big to retract. Left out, it will dry up and it has no lubrication to help the retraction process. Occasionally, you'll see a dog with longer fur have a problem, but it's rare. Moreover, unkept genitals can cause a host of other unpleasant issues, such as mats, crusty debris--we could go on, but this is a family blog.

Regardless of your dog's coat type, you must keep his genitals neat and tidy. Whether Fido has a penis or a vagina, discharge is normal unless it becomes excessive. Moreover, if a male dog isn't neutered, you'll have lots of discharge, which contributes to the retraction danger. (Yes, another reason to neuter!) Keeping the genitals clean and tidy also prevents mats from developing and debris from hiding and exposes the area to air, which as we all know is a freeing feeling.

I recommend that the genital area be trimmed short or shaved on all dogs that have a lot of hair or fur there. Please, don’t attempt to cut or shave this area yourself. This is an extremely delicate area that requires the expert hand of a professional groomer--a good groomer with a gentle and steady touch. If your dog has Hair that grows, he'll need to go in for a genital touch up about every 4-6 weeks. Otherwise, see the groomer when the fur gets long or thick.

And one more thing, Puppysitter: I recommend that you keep all your teddy bears on high shelves, especially those under age 16.

Ask Billy: Do I really have to brush my short-haired dog?

At least 3,453,897 times a week, Billy (and now Jill) comes across someone who claims that his or her short haired dog "never needs to be brushed."  Hearing this type of blasphemy is our cross to bear, but we feel truly sorry for all those dirty, furry short-haired dogs out there. Moreover, (solely for emphasis) Billy has been known to lift up the owner's pant leg and check the socks for the tell-tale fur coating.  Fur covered socks are always a dead giveaway that you've been neglecting your brushing duties.  

ALL dogs except, of course, the truly hairless must be brushed regularly. And by regularly, we mean several times a week--at least.  It's good for Fido and for you.

In addition to the emotional satisfaction of basking in your attention, the benefits of brushing are numerous.  Brushing removes Fido's dead fur, which dulls the coat, distributes the fur's natural oils and simulates blood flow to the skin.  As a result, your regularly brushed pooch will have a clean, healthy, sleek, shiny coat just like the beautiful Bella shown above.  Besides, proper brushing feels really, really good--like a massage.  Just be gentle and don't brush over the same spot too many times.  (In our book, you'll learn all the proper brushing techniques.) Your best friend certainly deserves some pampering in exchange for all that unconditional love. 

The benefits of brushing don't stop there.  You get to relax and enjoy quality time with your best pal.  In addition, you'll see much less fur on your furniture, clothes, floor and socks; brushing removes the dead fur before it falls off your dog.  Just think of all the money you'll save on lint rollers and dry cleaning!

The appropriate brush to use depends on how short Fido's fur actually is.  Dogs with very short coats like the Dalmatian, Boxer, Pit Bull, Smooth Chihuahua, Great Dane, Whippet, Greyhound, Bulldog and Smooth Dachshund require a "rubber curry."  If your dog's coat is a bit longer, like a Lab, Mastiff, Golden Retriever, German Shepherd or Long Haired Dachshund purchase a good quality "slicker."  Always check the wire bristles on your arm to determine if they are too sharp.  Clean your curry or slicker regularly and throw it away the moment it is damaged or just gross.

Photo of Bella by: Michael Vistia, Vistia Designs

Ask Billy: How do I make a better top knot (pony tail)?

Helen writes: "Hi Billy.  I have a grooming question if you don't mind.  My Shih Tzu Raja wears his hair up in a sort of topsy tail.  What do you recommend I do about those pesky hairs that come out of the tail and fall over his eyes?  I'm not big on sprays.  Any ideas for me?"

Helen, thanks for your question, it's a good one because many people don't want to use products to keep hairs inside the pony tail, which is technically called a top knot.  

When you see a show dog with a perfect top knot, you can bet that that dog spends all of his off time with his hair wrapped in plastic.  The plastic protects the hair and prevents breakage.  Believe it or not, the oil from human hands breaks down the hair and causes it to break off, not to mention brushing and playing.

The shorter hairs you're seeing around Raja's top knot are caused by everyday wear and tear.  For instance, every time he smiles, yawns and bats his eyes at you, those hairs fall out of the top knot!  Unfortunately, there's nothing to prevent that except to wrap up his hair in plastic like a show dog.  However, you don't want to kiss Raja through a wad of Saran wrap.  Leave the Saran in the kitchen and do what I do for my clients.  

I make 2 pony tails, one in front of the other.  Start in the front right above Raja's eyes.  This first top knot will hold all the shorter hair and should be less full than the second one.  Be sure not to pull too tight or Raja will loook like he's had a run in with a bottle of Botox.  For the second top knot, gather the longer hair right behind the first one.  After you've made both top knots, rubber band them together, again being careful not to make it too tight. If Raja looks like Priscilla Presley on Dancing With Stars or Florence Henderson, you'll know that the knot is too tight.  For any short hairs that still fall out, you can cut them short or be patient and let them grow out.  I recommend the second choice.

How often can I wash my dog?

Today, a client came into Doggy Dooz, Billy's salon, and asked this question:

"My vet said that I shouldn't wash my Husky more than twice a year because it would make his fur fall out.  Billy, is this true?"

Once I recovered from the shock of this treachery and pulled myself up off the floor, I realized that there's a whole lot of misinformation floating around out there--even from educated experts.  The truth is, the only thing I know of (other than severe trauma) that can remove a dog's fur en masse is Nair.  Nair, however, is a human product and as such should NEVER EVER be used on a dog.   Now, back to the question.  

All dog's must be washed way more than twice a year.  If not for the sake of your nose, bedspread and sofa, then for the health of Fido's skin and coat (not to mention his self-esteem).  Imagine how you'd feel if your hair was so long that it touched the ground everywhere you went and you smelled all your friends' butts and never came near soap. 

As long as you wash your dog correctly, you can wash as often as you'd like.  In my book, I'll teach you step-by-step how to wash your dog properly and easily at home.  In the meantime, use products formulated for dogs and rinse, rinse, rinse.  I wash many clients every week and I wash Zeke and Arthur at least once a week.  They've never lost their coat or even had a skin problem.